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Whether it goes by the name General Tso’s, General Gau’s, or General Gao’s (see a spirited Yelp discussion on the matter here), the deep-fried nuggets of boneless chicken tossed in sweet-spicy sauce and served on a bed of broccoli is America’s reigning Chinese dish. According to the food delivery site GrubHub, General Tso’s chicken was the most popular Chinese takeout item of 2014, and the fourth most-ordered dish overall.

In addition to being beloved, and delicious, it turns out that General Tso’s chicken is a case study in how a Chinese dish becomes American. (The journey was even the topic of its own documentary called The Search for General Tso, produced by the Chinese-food sleuth Jennifer 8. Lee.)

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