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When she was still with us, my grandmother baked Mexican wedding cookies every Christmas Eve. Today these nutty, powdered sugar-coated cookies take me back to her little house in San Fernando, where it was warm on most Southern Californian Christmases; I sensed these cookies were her way of giving us snow for Christmas. She had a heavy hand with the powdered sugar, and although I loved the nutty confections, I’d have a coughing fit with each bite as I inhaled — literally — the sweet, dusty exterior. And then I’d take another.

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