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Every year I watch this 1987 clip with David Letterman and Julia Child, and this year it feels more relevant than ever. If you haven’t watched it yet — this is the time. Ostensibly the segment has Julia brought on to make a hamburger but she is faced with an equipment malfunction that I deeply suspect was constructed by Letterman to throw her off for laughs.

So she improvises, to devastating effect, keeping Letterman’s sarcasm at bay with a blowtorch and a tangible determination to own every joke. Letterman didn’t stand a chance. How refreshing.

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