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The Parmesan cheese I grew up sprinkling on my spaghetti came straight from a green tube labeled “Kraft.” This was before anyone worried whether those jars of Prego sauce were authentic, before we wondered if we should be eating fresh pasta instead of dried, and long before the green tube of “Parmesan” was discovered to contain wood pulp.

Wood pulp or no, I maintain a nostalgic love for the pebbled cheese of my youth and would happily toss it on my noodles. But it’s definitely not real Parmigiano-Reggiano. In fact, very few cheeses packaged and sold as Parmigiano-Reggiano are.

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