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Any time I come to Louisville, I play a little game. Sit at a bar, sniff out the bourbon section, and start counting bottles. The tiniest little neighborhood bar might have about 50. Renowned whiskey bars often pour a few hundred brown-water variations.

From the bar at Harvest, a middle-sized farm-to-table eatery in the artsy NuLu (New Louisville) district, I stop counting at about 80. The bartender passes me the full list, which clocks in at over 100 bourbons — and that’s before you start counting other whiskey variations (rye, Scotch, etc.).

As a fan of fine American whiskey, I am deeply impressed. As a fan of Louisville, an oft-overlooked gem of a city, I’m both ecstatic and comforted.

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