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When planning dessert, I often gloss over the chocolate cake. Is it too decadent? Too simple? Not sophisticated enough? Anyone can make a solid chocolate cake — even if they have to use a boxed mix!

And so I make elaborate other things, and sometimes they are even good. In adulthood, I have come to master the art of the carrot cake, for example. It takes eight hours and a vat of boiling oil, but I can make a mean vegan donut. In restaurants, I order mousses and tarts that come garnished with at least three different accoutrements, and I enjoy them. Who among us does not appreciate a berry coulis, a caramelized banana, a drizzle of caramel sauce?

Here is the thing, though — deep down, what I really want is chocolate cake. I am not alone.

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