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It always starts with coffee, doesn’t it? When you’re introduced to a new food, a new way of eating, a new culture and its cuisine, there are so many gateways, but for me it always seems to be coffee. Sooty and astringent in Turkey, café bonbóns in Spain, and then giant saucers of café con leche in a now-closed Cuban restaurant — La Rosita — that used to sit on Broadway and 108th. That restaurant is where I was first introduced to Cuban food — by way of breakfast.

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